Fasci-Nation Part 1 -
I'll qualify the following lovefest with two thoughts - 1) I am clearly in a honeymoon period in my new relationship with Japan and 2) Everything I see now that could be perceived as negative is simply charming to me right now. WIth these two caveats understood, I'll just tell you that Japan and the teaching I'm about to start are both incredibly fascinating to me. I've already written and showed pictures of a little of Japanese beauty...in its very accessible memorials to history but I've noticed and quickly come to realize some very fundamental differences between everyday Japanese and American life.
The city I've spent the past few days in is Okayama, which is the capital of the Okayama prefecture (basically the equivalent of a state). Okayama's population is around 700,000 - big enough to encompass different facets of typical Japanese life but not big enough to be completely foreignized (I think I made that word up but it's in context, you get it). I'd always heard the two stereotypes of Japanese people - polite and hard working. I don't really think you can appreciate the levels of Japanese politeness or industriousness until you've seen it first hand. This is going to come off as sounding negative towards America, but I think the shoe fits. We, as Americans, are narcissistic and wholly impatient, especially when it comes to dealing with foreigners. I'd love to play the 'not me' card but I've been guilty too. Think of how quickly you've seen Americans lose patience with foreign visitors, especially if they don't know English. While I've always tried to look at things through their eyes, I know I've gotten fed up and thought less of people just because they didn't know the words to express what they wanted.
Flash forward to yesterday afternoon. Five other teachers and I set out on a mission for the 100 Yen Store (yeah, the $1 store!!) and as we continued to walk through the marketplace, we stopped for lunch. We could express that we wanted a table for 6 but that was about it. The entire menu was written in kanji (the tough Chinese picture characters) with a few pictures. Our rule of thumb generally has been...stick to pictures, it's easier and you'll know, for the most part, what you're getting. Naturally we had a few questions - nothing huge, 'how much does this cost? (ikura desuka - ee-koo-ra des-kah?)' or 'what is this? (kore wa nan desuka - core-eh wah non des-kah?). Our waiter tried his best to point out whatever answer we needed or speak with limited English he knew. When he came to a question he couldn't answer, he ran off to check with the manager on how to communicate with us. This isn't really to say no one in America would do this...but in Japan, it seems to be the rule whereas in America, it's the exception. In America, I think we cast off foreigners as inconveniences and, ultimately, we come off selfish and disrespectful. Maybe I'm seeing a facade but even this small example shows first, how polite and willing to help the Japanese are and second, the pride the Japanese show in their work is astounding. Although it sounds like a totally communist philosophy, we were told during our training that a part of our duty is cleaning the branch school with the other employees. Our President/CEO cleans the toilets in his building each day. Japanese advertising and marketing is tremendously different; it's all based on respect. I'm used to seeing smear campaigns and relentless drubbing of competitors as the way things are sold. In Japan, companies advertise the greatness of their product and make no mention of competition, even between bitter rivals - no bad words, no leading statistics, no jokes at their expense - because it's seen as a sign of disrespect.
This all translates into everyday life, it's really right in front of me. Basically to get the main heart of Okayama, we have to exit the annex we're staying in, cross over the train station/market and you're in the center of the business district. Just on that walk you see, plain as day, the differences in everyday life. I can't recall a time in Chicago where I walked a few blocks and didn't hear a car honking its horn or someone yelling something. That just does not happen here. People move equally as fast, the sidewalks are more congested with pedestrians and people on bikes but it has a natural flow without being disturbing. It's surreal to walk down a main street and be able to hear your own thoughts. Walk/do not walk signs are followed religiously (although this appears to be because cars can seemingly come out of nowhere). I love that there are random vending machines everywhere here....they even have hot drinks that come in cans - seems simple but I'm enthralled! Kids here are hilarious...I'm going to have coyly snap pictures of some of these kids - they're either fashion forward geniuses or plain ridiculous...probably both but ya gotta love the freedom of expression but it's quite the contrast to the ultra-conservative Japanese businessman look. That'll make a nice segue into part two of my lovefest about work but it's almost 12:30am and I have training tomorrow, so I'm signing off for now. I'll get off the soapbox you probably think I'm on :)
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
Monday, June 23, 2008
Japanese-American Idol
I don't know whether it's actually a rite of passage or not but it could not go without being done...oh yes, the Japanese art of empty orchestra, karaoke. I'll introduce you to my fellow teachers by their respective karaoke action shots. Ladies and gentlemen, your Japanese-American/British Idols!!
Jeff - striped polo, from North Carolina...highlight - belting out a mean rendition of Coolio's "Gangsta's Paradise"
Stacy - black dress, red necklace, from Colorado...highlight - total solo performance of "Waterfalls" by TLC
Susan - red hair, yellowi cardigan deal, from Virginia...highlight - Chris Brown "Kiss Kiss" - she made a habit of picking songs and then not singing them
TJ - pink t-shirt, from LA (UCLA, not USC)...highlight - voraciously searching, finding and throwing down Peter Cetera "Glory of Love"
Brian - multi-colored button down shirt, from Sacramento...highlight - aside from music, we bought whiskey from a very energetic convenient store worker and joined in extended effort to get Stacy to buy us Japanese porn (very prominently displayed)
Adam - guy with the bandana around his neck, from North Carolina...highlight: totally monotone reading of "Pass That Dutch" - Missy Elliott
Mariah - flowery shirt...from within 150 miles of Liverpool, England...highlight: among many was anything rapped and the Beatles medley
This night contained too many Asahi's, a mile walk there and back, a trip to the convenient store for whiskey (no porn) and waking up with a raging hangover which I am battling as I write. Enjoy pictures, please.
Jeff - striped polo, from North Carolina...highlight - belting out a mean rendition of Coolio's "Gangsta's Paradise"
Stacy - black dress, red necklace, from Colorado...highlight - total solo performance of "Waterfalls" by TLC
Susan - red hair, yellowi cardigan deal, from Virginia...highlight - Chris Brown "Kiss Kiss" - she made a habit of picking songs and then not singing them
TJ - pink t-shirt, from LA (UCLA, not USC)...highlight - voraciously searching, finding and throwing down Peter Cetera "Glory of Love"
Brian - multi-colored button down shirt, from Sacramento...highlight - aside from music, we bought whiskey from a very energetic convenient store worker and joined in extended effort to get Stacy to buy us Japanese porn (very prominently displayed)
Adam - guy with the bandana around his neck, from North Carolina...highlight: totally monotone reading of "Pass That Dutch" - Missy Elliott
Mariah - flowery shirt...from within 150 miles of Liverpool, England...highlight: among many was anything rapped and the Beatles medley
This night contained too many Asahi's, a mile walk there and back, a trip to the convenient store for whiskey (no porn) and waking up with a raging hangover which I am battling as I write. Enjoy pictures, please.
Butt Spray and Samurais
Whoa, the Japan Weight Loss Plan is serious business. After five hours of sleep or so, I saw the sunlight and figured it was time to wake up - without knowing the time. Still having not met my roommate, I gingerly gather my shower necessities and get that done. So I'm all dressed and ready to wander around Okayama when I saw a little clock telling me it was 6am. In the States, I could head to a Starbucks but the coffee place here, Seattle's Best, opens at 8am. Instead of being adventurous, I learned about tax withholding and Japanese local laws! A little before 8 my roommate, TJ, woke up and we chatted a bit. I suppose if I was one for the one night stand, I'd be more comfortable with get-to-know-you conversations after waking up.
After experiencing a few transactions, I've learned that taking even the easy things for granted isn't going to fly here. Thankfully most things have pictures in Okayama so ordering hasn't been too painstaking but I'm only really good at saying 'arigato gozaimasu'. Japan is infamous for combining old-world tradition with new technologies. That said, I've never seen a more advanced toilet than the one in market today. It had levels of deodorizers to set, buttons to control water pressure and even a button to press if you wanted a spray of water...you know, coming from below to..your below.
Oh, it's miserably humid here. Shirts and packs are sticking to my skin and I have a permanent sweat film that's coming with me wherever I go. And it did so on the mile or so walk to Okayama Castle (aka Crow Castle). This is my first of probably many castles and it's breathtaking. A lake and a gigantic park flanked the castle - which is the main attraction of the "Culture Zone". For 300 yen, we were admitted to the castle which has now been restored into a museum. I've posted pictures below but you should be especially drawn to Samurai Matt!
After experiencing a few transactions, I've learned that taking even the easy things for granted isn't going to fly here. Thankfully most things have pictures in Okayama so ordering hasn't been too painstaking but I'm only really good at saying 'arigato gozaimasu'. Japan is infamous for combining old-world tradition with new technologies. That said, I've never seen a more advanced toilet than the one in market today. It had levels of deodorizers to set, buttons to control water pressure and even a button to press if you wanted a spray of water...you know, coming from below to..your below.
Oh, it's miserably humid here. Shirts and packs are sticking to my skin and I have a permanent sweat film that's coming with me wherever I go. And it did so on the mile or so walk to Okayama Castle (aka Crow Castle). This is my first of probably many castles and it's breathtaking. A lake and a gigantic park flanked the castle - which is the main attraction of the "Culture Zone". For 300 yen, we were admitted to the castle which has now been restored into a museum. I've posted pictures below but you should be especially drawn to Samurai Matt!
Sunday, June 22, 2008
Directionless
Directionless
Seoul Incheon Airport was kinda trippy. Upon my arrival, I just followed all of the people towards the train and then exited the train when everyone else did. Thankfully English is the international language and I could figure things out from there. I started off in a chic airport mall with a Burberry, Gucci, etc...and followed arrows to my gate. Once I was sure where I needed be, I started wandering to kill the three hour layover. I returned to that chic mall and decided to explore each branch from it. Every single branch was identical. There were more Burberry's, more Gucci's, more etc's, I was frightened and returned to the KFC - Colonel Sanders is a comforting icon 7,000 miles from home. I didn't touch his chicken but I did take solace in his beautiful face.
7:10pm finally came and my flight to Osaka was about to take off- hallelujah!! My warped brain didn't think about my seat clearly so I managed to confuse passengers and staff alike by speaking English and telling them I was in 17A. Finally I found my ticket stub...16A. I suck. I slept sitting up for most of the 90 minute flight and, at long last, I'd arrived at Osaka Kansai airport - near 9pm
615 CST - Leave home for ORD
800 CST - Fly ORD to SFO
1030 PST - Land at SFO (total flight time: 4.5 hours)
1110 PST - Pull into gate at SFO
110 PST - Fly SFO to Seoul
410 JST - Land at Seoul (total flight time: 15 hours - I question this)
710 JST - Fly Seoul to Osaka
855 JST - Land at Osaka (total flight time: 1:45)
930 JST - Cab from Osaka-Kansai to bullet train
1030 JST - Arrive at bullet train
1145 JST - Arrive at Okayama training facility (total commute time: 27 hours, 30 minutes)
The trainers that I met at Okayama were pointing things out with things like, "oh, to the east is blah blah" - like I have a clue which way east is. I was massively turned around for the few weeks I was in Champaign without Lake Michigan. So I am writing this in dead quiet because I have a roommate sleeping and I've never met him. All I know is that he has a guitar with African country stickers on it, his name is TJ and he has a Mac. What makes this great is I have a cold so I am trying to suppress my coughs which makes me sound like I'm choking and that makes me tear up. I'm a sight...if only you could see that and just know that I am listening to Milli Vanilli right now as well. I have no idea what is going on tomorrow but there'll be pictures!
Seoul Incheon Airport was kinda trippy. Upon my arrival, I just followed all of the people towards the train and then exited the train when everyone else did. Thankfully English is the international language and I could figure things out from there. I started off in a chic airport mall with a Burberry, Gucci, etc...and followed arrows to my gate. Once I was sure where I needed be, I started wandering to kill the three hour layover. I returned to that chic mall and decided to explore each branch from it. Every single branch was identical. There were more Burberry's, more Gucci's, more etc's, I was frightened and returned to the KFC - Colonel Sanders is a comforting icon 7,000 miles from home. I didn't touch his chicken but I did take solace in his beautiful face.
7:10pm finally came and my flight to Osaka was about to take off- hallelujah!! My warped brain didn't think about my seat clearly so I managed to confuse passengers and staff alike by speaking English and telling them I was in 17A. Finally I found my ticket stub...16A. I suck. I slept sitting up for most of the 90 minute flight and, at long last, I'd arrived at Osaka Kansai airport - near 9pm
615 CST - Leave home for ORD
800 CST - Fly ORD to SFO
1030 PST - Land at SFO (total flight time: 4.5 hours)
1110 PST - Pull into gate at SFO
110 PST - Fly SFO to Seoul
410 JST - Land at Seoul (total flight time: 15 hours - I question this)
710 JST - Fly Seoul to Osaka
855 JST - Land at Osaka (total flight time: 1:45)
930 JST - Cab from Osaka-Kansai to bullet train
1030 JST - Arrive at bullet train
1145 JST - Arrive at Okayama training facility (total commute time: 27 hours, 30 minutes)
The trainers that I met at Okayama were pointing things out with things like, "oh, to the east is blah blah" - like I have a clue which way east is. I was massively turned around for the few weeks I was in Champaign without Lake Michigan. So I am writing this in dead quiet because I have a roommate sleeping and I've never met him. All I know is that he has a guitar with African country stickers on it, his name is TJ and he has a Mac. What makes this great is I have a cold so I am trying to suppress my coughs which makes me sound like I'm choking and that makes me tear up. I'm a sight...if only you could see that and just know that I am listening to Milli Vanilli right now as well. I have no idea what is going on tomorrow but there'll be pictures!
Seoulful Maiden Voyage
Seoulful Maiden Voyage
Things just do not go easily or smoothly for me. I don't mean that to sound whiny or negative because I have a great, privileged life but pretty much every major part of my life comes with obstacles and detours. While things like this probably happen to everyone, stories never seem to equate to some of the absurdity I've experienced. My journey to Japan is not really astounding but it serves as a typical example of some of the weird events in my life.
After the predictably tearful goodbye to my parents this morning, I brought what amounted to about 150lbs of luggage into O'Hare and checked in...so far, so good. Apparently my passport and work visa are acceptable and I was checked onto my flight. But once I entered the security, the never-ending love/hate relationship with United began. The petulant bag checking lady delightedly informed me that my carry-on was too big and needed to be checked. I had illusions of a well-versed pleading that came out as, "ummm...I need to have this bag with me." She asked why..."because I...umm...need it in Osaka." I could assume she didn't know what Osaka was but I am guessing her vacant look just simply meant, "I do not care." Stumbling stupidly through my explanation, I thought...'I'll have the damn bag in Osaka and my explanation made no sense.' I revisited the ladies that checked me in and they both offered a sympathetic response which I hoped translated into avoiding a fee...no. One of them guessed $130 and then was surprised that I only incurred a $94 tab for the extra bag.
The good part of the third bag being checked is that I don't have to lug around a 43lb bag around the terminal. My seat for the first leg of the trip (to San Francisco) was 1A - first class! Usually I opt out of first class (I know, crazy) but today I was aiming to spend as many of the 16 in-flight hours as I could in comfort. Sitting in first class is like two seats behind the dugout at a baseball game. Those are desired and wonderful seats but sometimes I want to be a little further back to see the whole field. Anyways, I enjoyed the omelette and fruit breakfast and then the three hours of sleep caught up to me and I slept for more than half of the flight. At around 10:30 Pacific time, the flight landed in San Francisco and I had 67 minutes to catch my connection.
Now the plane has made its way to the gate and we start de-boarding. Time: 11:11. In 26 minutes, I have to get to the international terminal and get through security again. First, the departure boards confused me because the international gates start with a "G" but the gate listed for Osaka-Kansai was "100". Using my best judgment, I defaulted to 'Osaka is not in America...therefore, it's international.' Yes!! My assumption was correct and I stood in line for security. Time: 11:19. Well, the damn TSA people either took their jobs more seriously or held less compassion for me than the ORD guy. I bought five tubes of toothpaste for my co-worker and they were quickly confiscated. I think TSA guy wanted to read me the rules and regulations but I basically told him I had a flight in ten minutes and to just take the toothpaste. Sorry, Sarah...they're gone. Through security - Time: 11:28. Gate G100 was only a few hundred feet and a down escalator away. And I've arrvied...Time: 11:32. It goes a little hazy from here because I'm told that I cannot board because I was assumed as missing and my bag was removed from the plane. Gate agents and people on the plane communicated for a few minutes and, eventually, I was told that I could not make the flight and I still don't understand why.
I was told that if I missed my flight, I should call my recruiters and let them know so they could communicate to the staff in Japan. I called a few times with no answer and then visited the counter to go over my options...well, option. A flight was leaving in an hour to Seoul that would have another connection to Osaka - and would arrive about five hours after my original plan. After trying to reach recruiters in the office and their cell phones, I made the executive decision to book the flight. Of course the next call I place to the cell phone gets one of my recruiters on the line and she tells me to stay in San Francisco and hop the next flight to Osaka tomorrow. Not only is tomorrow's flight over-booked but there are no open seats for, at least, a week. Without really asking, the supervisor has decided to cut me a check for $400 for my trouble. All I did was explain why I needed to get Osaka as soon as possible and United authorized a hotel for me in Osaka. I called Amity back, explained the situation and we should be all good to go. The only part left to figure out is what happens when I get to Japan - is someone going to meet me or do I stay in the Japanese hotel and wait for word? Now, I am about two hours into my flight to Seoul - once I get there or Osaka, I need to check my email to give me my next move. I thought this was easy enough but then I thought about the internet situation in Japan. Chances are, it'll be easy to figure out in the airport but what if I search for a wireless signal and it's in Chinese characters? What if I pick the wrong one? What if it translates to, 'haha, you stupid gaijin...your stealing this signal has authorized me to steal your identity and sell it on the black market for ninja stars and Fruity Pebbles?"
It's about five hours since I last updated this entry but we are about 240 miles from Seoul and I had a few random thoughts. Previously I likened the first class experience to having seats behind the dugout. Well, my ORD to SFO first class trip was like a 6-3 borefest. The SFO-Seoul leg is like watching a no-hitter with dugout seats. I am in the first seat past first class and I would like to kill the people with reclining comfy chairs and food that actually looks prepared, rather than mass-nuked. Uh oh, the little tv screen is showing the miles traveled, altitude and some random number but they're being identified by Asian symbols. So it begins!
Cost benefit analysis: Book, sudoku book, gum - ($18), baggage fee ($94), trouble money +$400 = +$288 - hmmm, not bad!
My most entertaining subplot of this flight is watching the mildly flamboyant Asian flight attendant (who looks curiously like Robert Goulet) approach our row and continuously refer to the girl next to me as 'sir'. It's not a language gap - he must either be cunningly humorous or confused by her boyish haircut, tucked in green t-shirt to mom jeans and white socks plus black shoes. Sexy!
Things just do not go easily or smoothly for me. I don't mean that to sound whiny or negative because I have a great, privileged life but pretty much every major part of my life comes with obstacles and detours. While things like this probably happen to everyone, stories never seem to equate to some of the absurdity I've experienced. My journey to Japan is not really astounding but it serves as a typical example of some of the weird events in my life.
After the predictably tearful goodbye to my parents this morning, I brought what amounted to about 150lbs of luggage into O'Hare and checked in...so far, so good. Apparently my passport and work visa are acceptable and I was checked onto my flight. But once I entered the security, the never-ending love/hate relationship with United began. The petulant bag checking lady delightedly informed me that my carry-on was too big and needed to be checked. I had illusions of a well-versed pleading that came out as, "ummm...I need to have this bag with me." She asked why..."because I...umm...need it in Osaka." I could assume she didn't know what Osaka was but I am guessing her vacant look just simply meant, "I do not care." Stumbling stupidly through my explanation, I thought...'I'll have the damn bag in Osaka and my explanation made no sense.' I revisited the ladies that checked me in and they both offered a sympathetic response which I hoped translated into avoiding a fee...no. One of them guessed $130 and then was surprised that I only incurred a $94 tab for the extra bag.
The good part of the third bag being checked is that I don't have to lug around a 43lb bag around the terminal. My seat for the first leg of the trip (to San Francisco) was 1A - first class! Usually I opt out of first class (I know, crazy) but today I was aiming to spend as many of the 16 in-flight hours as I could in comfort. Sitting in first class is like two seats behind the dugout at a baseball game. Those are desired and wonderful seats but sometimes I want to be a little further back to see the whole field. Anyways, I enjoyed the omelette and fruit breakfast and then the three hours of sleep caught up to me and I slept for more than half of the flight. At around 10:30 Pacific time, the flight landed in San Francisco and I had 67 minutes to catch my connection.
Now the plane has made its way to the gate and we start de-boarding. Time: 11:11. In 26 minutes, I have to get to the international terminal and get through security again. First, the departure boards confused me because the international gates start with a "G" but the gate listed for Osaka-Kansai was "100". Using my best judgment, I defaulted to 'Osaka is not in America...therefore, it's international.' Yes!! My assumption was correct and I stood in line for security. Time: 11:19. Well, the damn TSA people either took their jobs more seriously or held less compassion for me than the ORD guy. I bought five tubes of toothpaste for my co-worker and they were quickly confiscated. I think TSA guy wanted to read me the rules and regulations but I basically told him I had a flight in ten minutes and to just take the toothpaste. Sorry, Sarah...they're gone. Through security - Time: 11:28. Gate G100 was only a few hundred feet and a down escalator away. And I've arrvied...Time: 11:32. It goes a little hazy from here because I'm told that I cannot board because I was assumed as missing and my bag was removed from the plane. Gate agents and people on the plane communicated for a few minutes and, eventually, I was told that I could not make the flight and I still don't understand why.
I was told that if I missed my flight, I should call my recruiters and let them know so they could communicate to the staff in Japan. I called a few times with no answer and then visited the counter to go over my options...well, option. A flight was leaving in an hour to Seoul that would have another connection to Osaka - and would arrive about five hours after my original plan. After trying to reach recruiters in the office and their cell phones, I made the executive decision to book the flight. Of course the next call I place to the cell phone gets one of my recruiters on the line and she tells me to stay in San Francisco and hop the next flight to Osaka tomorrow. Not only is tomorrow's flight over-booked but there are no open seats for, at least, a week. Without really asking, the supervisor has decided to cut me a check for $400 for my trouble. All I did was explain why I needed to get Osaka as soon as possible and United authorized a hotel for me in Osaka. I called Amity back, explained the situation and we should be all good to go. The only part left to figure out is what happens when I get to Japan - is someone going to meet me or do I stay in the Japanese hotel and wait for word? Now, I am about two hours into my flight to Seoul - once I get there or Osaka, I need to check my email to give me my next move. I thought this was easy enough but then I thought about the internet situation in Japan. Chances are, it'll be easy to figure out in the airport but what if I search for a wireless signal and it's in Chinese characters? What if I pick the wrong one? What if it translates to, 'haha, you stupid gaijin...your stealing this signal has authorized me to steal your identity and sell it on the black market for ninja stars and Fruity Pebbles?"
It's about five hours since I last updated this entry but we are about 240 miles from Seoul and I had a few random thoughts. Previously I likened the first class experience to having seats behind the dugout. Well, my ORD to SFO first class trip was like a 6-3 borefest. The SFO-Seoul leg is like watching a no-hitter with dugout seats. I am in the first seat past first class and I would like to kill the people with reclining comfy chairs and food that actually looks prepared, rather than mass-nuked. Uh oh, the little tv screen is showing the miles traveled, altitude and some random number but they're being identified by Asian symbols. So it begins!
Cost benefit analysis: Book, sudoku book, gum - ($18), baggage fee ($94), trouble money +$400 = +$288 - hmmm, not bad!
My most entertaining subplot of this flight is watching the mildly flamboyant Asian flight attendant (who looks curiously like Robert Goulet) approach our row and continuously refer to the girl next to me as 'sir'. It's not a language gap - he must either be cunningly humorous or confused by her boyish haircut, tucked in green t-shirt to mom jeans and white socks plus black shoes. Sexy!